Just inside the entrance of one Warsaw high school, there’s a red plaque that pronounces it safe for LGBT students. “I chose this school because I just wanted to be myself,” Stacey explains, long fringe dangling over a face that’s heavy with make-up. The 15-year-old is transgender and moved to the Polish capital from a small village that she calls “very conservative”. She had to hide her identity there, at great cost to her mental health. “I didn’t want to live anymore, back then. Now I’m ok. I feel better.” The teenager is disarmingly frank.